I’ll begin with a quick update — last night in Sydney, Nova Scotia, as I was driving to get dinner, the BMW warned me that my right front tire was dangerously low. The car’s safety system activated BMW’s version of OnStar.

I heard this mysterious voice —

“… are you safe? What’s the problem? Where can we assist you?” So I had a conversation with some mysterious voice from outer space. All the voice could offer was to have the car towed to the only BMW dealership in Nova Scotia — in Halifax — 400km away. At CN$2 per km, that would be a CN$800 cost (to me) just for a tow.

I didn’t need a tow. I just needed to get my tire fixed. The outer space guy couldn’t arrange that. I asked him to disconnect.

I spoke with my buddy Steve who has been to this part of Canada a lot. We figured out a plan of attack, and I most sincerely appreciate his support (I had another grief-induced “dithering” situation where I couldn’t make a decision. I felt paralyzed and quite lonely.)

This morning, I called 3 tire repair shops. All were closed (contrary to websites that say they’re open). However, one of them had an after-hours answering service. I was put in contact with the Manager of a Mr Tire shop in Sydney, which was only 2km away from my hotel. The tire wasn’t completely flat, so I drove the BMW slowly to the shop.

The manager met me there. In under and hour, he found the problem (a pinhole in the tread), fixed it, and for “only” CN$105 (which included the after-hours service charge), I was on my way.

I could have used CAA — the AAA equivalent in Canada. However, they would have made me wait until Monday when tire shops were open. I am kinda “done” and want to come home, so I am glad, even if I had to pay for it myself, I got the tire fixed and can continue the rest of my journey as I had planned and fly home on Sunday.

Now — Friday, Cape Breton and the Cabot Trail!

Everyone said, “you’ve gotta go to Cape Breton and drive the Cabot Trail!” The Cabot Trail is a 185km scenic drive along the coast of Nova Scotia’s Cape Breton and is rated the #1 scenic drive in North America.

I had (once) dreamed of riding a Harley on this road, but I’m glad I was in a cage (car). Here’s why.

The road starts of deceptively gentle. It rolls along through low hills and small curves for about the first hour. Lots of “look offs” dot the road so I could stop and take photos of the rocky coastline and scenery.

Then… more curves and rather steep inclines. Okay… I could do that, especially since there were so many guard rails (unlike UT-12 over the Grand Staircase Escalante which had 1,000-ft drop-offs two feet from the road with NO guard rails.) — they’re more sane here in Canada. 🙂

A nice guy at my hotel in Baddeck (night of August 18) gave me four “must-see” sights that tourists usually don’t know about, so I sought them out.

The weather on the leeward side of Cape Breton was sunny and mild. I began on this side because I was forewarned that tour buses begin on the windward side (the clockwise direction), so to avoid them, go the other way. That advice saved me a lot of aggravation and crowds.

I also remember from an experience when riding Harleys with Steve through Utah’s national parks that finding lunch could be difficult and time consuming inside a park, so I stopped at a store and bought a sandwich, some chips, and water, to carry in for a picnic at lunchtime.

After about 50km, I arrived at the National Parks Canada Cape Breton entrance. I showed my lifetime pass. The ranger actually saluted me (giggle) and said, “if we knew you were coming, Dr. Lopes, we would have assigned a tour guide for your visit.”

I thanked the young man and said, “I’m just driving through and taking some pictures, so I don’t really need a guide, but thanks so much anyway.” He saluted me once more. (I’ve heard later that the majority of Canada Medal recipients are Canadian Military, so maybe that explains the salutes.)

I drove along, stopped at “look offs” along the way and took lots of photos (smattering below) of rocky coastlines, fishing villages, and even a lighthouse.

About noon, I found a nice area with picnic tables and toilets. I ate my lunch and took care of essential business.

As I drove some more, I passed a number of restaurants that all had long lines waiting to get in. I am so glad (Steve!) that I brought my own picnic. Gave me a lot more time to enjoy the scenic views.

It clouded up and began to sprinkle. I was climbing higher in elevation as my ears were popping. Then it got very foggy and I realized that I was inside a cloud at the top of one of the mountain ranges that run through the middle of Cape Breton!

While the BMW handled just fine, I got to thinking — “no way on a motorcycle; no way!” (Sisters, you can relax. I ain’t bringin’ no Harley here!)

I drove and drove and drove. Down the windward side of the Cape, the rain persisted. But it was warm and the rain was more like drizzle than a downpour. I continued to take more photos.

I was also warned that the Cabot Trail had been closed due to very heavy rain causing the road to wash out two weeks ago. The road had been reopened just one day before I arrived.

I suffered the consequences of being caught up with road construction where they were “single-laning” traffic with alternating openings and “follow-me” trucks. Fortunately, going the direction I was, my delays were relatively minimal. I could see tour buses, campers, RVs, and lots more traffic backed up for miles going the other way.

So — “been there, done that, got the T-shirt!” Some photos are below.

Life is short: travel on!